Central American Boa (Boa constrictor)

Product Description

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Boa constrictor imperator

DESCRIPTION: We have imported Central American Boa Babies available now. They are eating fuzzy mice and are about 10" -18" in length.

MAXIMUM ADULT SIZE: Average 5 - 7'

DIET: Frozen thawed or live fuzzy mice. Frozen rodents are available in our food section..

HABITAT: Provide a substrate of aspen or wood mulch at least 2” deep. A small, heavy bowl of fresh water and shelter, such as a hollow log or concave rock or plastic “cave” are the three essential pieces of cage furniture. A hot spot of almost 90F should be provided at one end. Climbing branches may be appreciated, especially with smaller boas. Mist if shedding problems occur.

ORIGIN: Central America

GENERAL INFO: Boa constrictors have an arrow-shaped head that has very distinctive stripes on it. One runs dorsally from the snout to the back of the head. The others run from the snout to the eyes and then from the eyes to the jaw. Boa constrictors can sense heat via cells in their lips, though they lack the labial pits surrounding these receptors seen in many members of the boidae family. Boa constrictors also have two lungs a smaller (non-functional) left and enlarged (functional) right lung to better fit their elongated shape, unlike many colubrid snakes which have completely lost the left lung.Captive life expectancy is 20 to 30 years, with rare accounts of over 40 years,making them a long-term commitment as a pet. Proper animal husbandry is the most significant factor in captive lifespan, this includes providing adequate space, correct temperatures and humidity and suitable food items. Young Boa constrictors should be started off in a relatively small enclosure, generally a terrarium. This enclosure is then increased as the boa grows, as large open spaces are stressful for young snakes. However large females may need even larger enclosures. The general rule is that the minimum length of the enclosure should be two thirds of the snake's length.Snakes are generally kept in separate enclosures, but people have successfully kept females together. Male boas should not be kept together as they may fight. Glass, aquarium-syle enclosures are advised as they do not efficiently maintain temperature and humidity. A thermal gradient should be provided, with a cool end and a warm end where the heat source should be located. The cool end should be maintained at 75–85°F (27–29°C), and the warm end at 86–92°F (30–33°C).Temperatures should not be allowed to rise above 95°F (35°C) or drop below 75°F (24°C). Cages that are too cold can cause many health problems, ranging from non-digestion of food to pneumonia. The necessary temperature can be provided by a heat mat, ceramic or specific light bulb or other alternative heating systems. All heat sources should be guarded, to prevent burns to the snake, and used in conjunction with a thermostat to prevent overheating. Humidity should be kept at 50%, and raised to 70% when the boa is in shed. However, high humidity should not be maintained for longer than a week, as this raises the risk of infections such as scale rot. Humidity levels can be maintained with a water bowl, and raised by adding more water bowls, moving the current water bowl closer to the heat source or misting the enclosure with a water sprayer. Boa constrictors do not need any special lighting, but should have approximately 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness every day to simulate a natural environment. Either a bulb or natural light can be used to provide such conditions. Inside the enclosure a substrate, generally of aspen shavings, must be provided. Untreated pine shavings are to be avoided as they contain oils that are toxic to snakes. A water bowl, large enough to provide adequate humidity and that the boa can coil within, must be provided. Another basic essential is adequate hides, at least two (one in the cool end and one in the warm end). Hides can be anything from empty plastic or wooden boxes to specially made hides from a reptile equipment retailer. The hides ensure that the snake feels secure, as stress can result in snakes refusing to eat. Shelves or secure branches are often provided so that boas can climb, but this is not an essential. Fake plants and other natural looking decorations are also commonly provided, but again they are not essential.The general rule for feeding snakes is that a suitable prey item is the girth of the snake at its widest point,as with most snakes (including Boa constrictor) the left and right sides of the lower jaw are joined only by a flexible ligament at the anterior tips, allowing them to separate widely, while the posterior end of the lower jaw bones articulate with a quadrate bone, allowing further mobility, to allow the consuming of large prey. Young snakes can be fed once a week, to promote healthy growth. Adults only need to be fed once every month. Overfeeding (or powerfeeding) the snake can lead to a host of health problems later and can shorten its lifespan. It is natural for snakes to lose their appetite when going into shed as this is a stressful time for them, as such food should not be offered at this time. Water should be changed daily or every other day. Boas should be handled regularly to maintain their docility. Snakes should never be handled within 48 hours of feeding, due to a risk of regurgitation, or when in a shed cycle.